And THAT'S a Wrap!

 

My Full Route - Where I Overnighted

When I first posted on Facebook about my 25 day journey logging more than 7,000 miles, some folks were shocked, others amazed.  My closest family & friends were probably not surprised at all.  While most of my trip was planned to a pretty high degree of specificity, much of it was allowed to just flow as things happened.  Heck, I was barely on the road four hours on the first day, when I realized I had a small disconnect with one of my stays with a friend.

Quick action juggling a campground reservation, and an additional bonus day was added to what was already planned for a nice 3 day weekend in New Mexico.  I am so glad we had that extra day!  Come to think about it . . . both of my weekend stays with friends/family in New Mexico were expanded by a night.  Thank you Cindy & Debbie for having me and sharing your ranch homes with me.  Those days were truly highlights of a trip filled with wonderful experiences and sights.

And to my long-time friend Dawn, and her hubby Ray . . . I have missed you both so much since your move to Arizona!  It was good to get to spend a couple of days with you, and to share in Ray's birthday celebration.  Thank you for including me!  I thoroughly enjoyed "retirement living" in your community and look forward to David & my figuring out our retirement location soon.


Travel has given me so many wonderful friends throughout the years.  Here I am with Dave, one of my long-time timeshare friends.  We've "known" each other for more than 20 years thanks to the Timeshare Users Group (aka TUG).  When Dave read I was going to be driving through his area in Nevada, he insisted we finally meet up. I'm so thankful my schedule between Death Valley and Zion would allow for a visit along my day's journey.  Dave is another example of my favorite personal travel saying . . . "There is no such thing as strangers . . . only friends I've yet to meet."  Thank you Dave for being a friend throughout the years.

BY THE NUMBERS
11 states visited (IA, KS, MO, OK, TX, NM, AZ, CA, NV, UT, CO)
39 U.S. National Park Service sites . . . 26 were new/first-time experiences for me

25 days on the road in my 2012 Santa Fe
7,034 miles driven; 240,762 final odometer reading
276 gallons of gas @ $2.975 average price/gallon (reg U/L)
25.5 average MPG
Cheapest gas (purchased):  Texas $2.59/gallon
Most expensive gas (purchased):  California $4.33/gallon (NO SURPRISE!)
   although I did see (and avoided) $5.91/gallon in Death Valley
Honorable mention(s):  Utah $3.54/gallon and Nevada $3.55/gallon
   (all other states were under $3.00/gallon)

24 nights . . . 13 car camping, 7 with friends/family, 4 in hotels

MEMORIES . . . COUNTLESS!

The Best of the Rest

Twister Movie Museum (OK)

Sometimes when planning a big road trip, I will carve into my routing out of the way tourist attractions I've been saving for "another trip."  This particular adventure grew from 14-18 days to 25 for this reason!  Two summers ago, I had wanted to stop in Wakita, Oklahoma to check out the Twister Movie Museum as we worked our way home from Texas.  Our timing through OK just wasn't going to work out, so it was going to wait for another time.  I'm so glad the scheduling work out for me to finally stop by, even it if wasn't really anywhere close to "on the way" from Milwaukee to New Mexico.

Very Large Array (NM)

Another such tourist attraction was the Very Large Array (VLA) radio telescope facility located in New Mexico.  I had become aware of it a few years ago, so when my friend Debbie suggested we include it during my time with her, I was very happy to be able to see it.  I would suggest this be on the list for anyone interested in astronomy and satellite communications.

Sandia Peak Tramway (NM)

Debbie and her hubby Robert also shared with me the Sandia Peak Tramway in Albuquerque.  Again, I think I was aware of this years ago, when I was last in New Mexico for the 2000 ABC Championships (bowling) Tournament.  I recall a group of us going to the Sandia Casino one night and someone suggesting we do the tram . . . but it just never materialized.  Thank you Debbie for suggesting it and the fabulous lunch at the TEN 3 Restaurant overlooking the Albuquerque valley below.  In spite of the early morning clouds, it turned out to be a wonderful view by midday!

Catwalk Recreation Area (NM)

One last experience Debbie wanted to be sure I had during my weekend with her was the Catwalk Recreation Area of the Whitewater Canyon in the Gila National Forest.  While described online as a "challenging one-mile trail" I was leery about my ability to do the short hike.  Debbie assured me she would take it slow and would be patient with me . . . SHE WAS AMAZING and very encouraging.  With two ways to go through the canyon and to the actual "catwalk" we took the non-ADA compliant path which meant some walking utilizing rock stairs and inclines.  While it pushed me past my comfort zone, we made it without incident.  What we weren't prepared for, was taking what should have been the easier path back, but missing the cut-through and later having to cross the creek near the parking lot.  It was a bit unsettling having to walk across rocks to clear the waterway, but again Debbie was patient and able to navigate the obstacle while I avoided taking us down and getting wet.  After it was all said and done . . . I was very happy to have experienced this beautiful and tranquil slot canyon area.

Petroglyphs (UT)

During my time in New Mexico I initially wanted to visit a couple of parks featuring the rock carvings of ancient people indigenous to this region.  Because I knew there would be other opportunities later while in Utah, I by-passed BLM's Three Rivers Petroglyph Site and NPS' Petroglyph National Monument.  I was glad that the Newspaper Rock State Historical Monument in Utah was still "on they way" from Moab to Hovenweep the following week.  An added bonus was the Potash Road Petroglyphs, a cliff wall along the roadway during the afternoon 4x4 tour to Canyonlands National Park, just outside of Moab.  When we pulled up, a tour bus was just wrapping up their visit.  While not as impressive as the Newspaper Rock site I visited the following day, it was still very interesting to see the similarities in carvings at two locations perhaps 50 miles apart as the crow flies.  Be sure to enlarge the photo here to see the very intricate carvings on the large panorama photo of Newspaper Rock.

Escalante Heritage Center (UT)

The last site I want to share is the "Hole-in-the-Rock" near Escalante, UT where an expedition of approximately 250 Mormans in 86 wagons crossed through the Colorado River canyon.  A recounting of their full story can be read here. This small outdoor historical exhibit was a nice stop to get out and stretch my legs.  Throughout this region of southern Utah there were a lot of historical areas to explore.  I could see taking a week just to enjoy more of this area.

Escalante Petrofied Forest State Park (UT)

Random History Along the Way

So much of my 25 day adventure included so many famous historical events, that I was able to write three blog posts about those locations that have been memorialized by the U.S. Department of the Interior as national parks, historical monuments and memorials.  If you haven't read them yet, I encourage you to check them out:

U.S. National Parks:  America's History (Part 1) featuring the architecture and ruins of several SW pueblos and villages, as well as the tragic atrocities committed against Native American Indians.

U.S. National Parks:  America's History (Part 2) exploring the Santa Fe Trail from Missouri to New Mexico.

U.S. National Parks:  America's History (Part 3) touching on some people and events of the 20th century.

This blog is a continuation of the theme, but featuring local and/or state sites and museums I encountered during my trip.

Sunset at the Watkins Mills Campground (MO)

My first day on the road landed me in Missouri so that I could start the next morning at the Harry S Truman National Historic Site in Independence.  In searching for a campground in the area, I discovered the Watkins Mill State Park campground.  What I later learned was that was historical significance as the 19th century Watkins Woolen Mill was located adjacent to the campground and is open daily for tours.  This state historic site is well preserved and includes a separate museum in the visitor center.  While both are open to visitors until 5:00pm, the actual woolen mill building is only accessible by guided tour, with the last being scheduled at 4:00pm.  I was very fortunate to arrive just in time to be able to take the $5 tour.  My guide was very engaging and seems to enjoy telling the story of Waltus Watkins and his business endeavors in this area.  The milling equipment is all largely in tact and is the real story of this park.  That said, there are other buildings of interest on the property and with more time, should be considered for visiting.

Watkins Mill State Park (MO)

It wasn't much later in my journey that my mapping took me across the infamous Route 66!  Established in 1926 and known as the "Mother Road" Route 66 spans over 2,600 miles from Chicago to Santa Monica, California.  Officially decommissioned 1985 and replaced in many areas by I-40, there has been historic preservation in many states and communities where the old road passed.  During my trip I crossed the famed Route 66 in Oklahoma, Texas and New Mexico . . . making stops along the way to soak in some of the nostalgia from yesteryear.  In Oklahoma there is a very nice museum in Clinton.  A part of the Oklahoma Historical Society, I thoroughly enjoyed my visit.

Route 66 Museum - Clinton, OK

One of the more interesting exhibits shared what life was like in some of the ghost towns now that the big interstate highway had become the preferred route across the USA.  That set me up for the firsthand witnessing of the decline of buildings and commerce in places like Santa Rosa, NM and McLean, TX.  I did like that the 1929 Phillips 66 filling station had been restored and is being maintained today for visitors to see.  

Route 66 - McLean, TX

 

 

Route 66 - Santa Rosa, NM

 

 

 

But Santa Rosa was sad and depressing to me with all of the shuttered businesses . . . restaurants, motels and gas stations.  They did have a cool car museum which also had a lot of other antiques from a by-gone era. I did enjoy my time wandering through the museum, especially since a late afternoon thunderstorm came rolling through town.

While thinking about how automobile travel has changed over the last hundred years, I can't help but to also think about a similar role the railroad played in the 19th century.  The Santa Fe Trail was significant to the expansion of our country and eventually gave way to the iron horse.  This was made possible with the connection of Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe (AT&SF) Railroad which was chartered in 1859 and completed through to Santa Fe in 1880.  During my travels, especially in Kansas and Colorado, I experienced several tributes to the railroad industry.

La Junta, CO Bank

 

KOA - La Junta, CO

This was especially true in La Junta, Colorado where my KOA campground had several rail cars converted into lodging . . . and where I saw a Santa Fe caboose turned bank drive in branch in the downtown area. "La Junta" means "junction" in Spanish and that is exactly why this Colorado town came into existence.  Historians attribute the name in this way ". . . referring to where the northwest bound Oregon Trail split off from the Santa Fe Trail that went southwest. The Santa Fe likewise junctions in La Junta with main line traffic to Albuquerque, and a branch line to Denver."

 

When my travels home from Topeka took me directly through Atchison, KS I remembered reading about the AT&SF Railroad during one of my Santa Fe Trail visits . . . so I of course had to stop to check out their depot and museum.  It was a fascinating visit, especially to be able to connect the many dots from throughout my entire journey.  It seems like kismet to have this opportunity!

Atchison, Kansas Historical Museum

Here are a few of the trains I saw (and could photograph) throughout my 25 day road trip.  I really enjoyed seeing the blue & yellow K&O (Kansas & Oklahoma) engine, as that is one we never see in the upper Midwest!  It was also neat to see Amtrak's SouthWest Chief, a route I had done back in 2013 from Chicago to my sister's when she was living in Apple Valley, CA.

Trains Across America!

The "Sandy" National Parks

White Sands National Park (NM)

On Easter Sunday, my sister Cindy & I ventured northeast of Las Cruces to White Sands National Park.  It was a beautiful sunny day, with lots of families together for the holiday.  It was cool to see folks tailgating and enjoying the snow white dunes.  The young & old were playing in the sand, many riding large plastic saucers typically seen on snow hills in the winter.  Encompassing more than 275 square miles, this is the largest gypsum dunefield in the world.  Cindy said that usually guests could enjoy a hike on the boardwalks, but during our visit, they were all covered with deep drifts from the blowing winds.  Even portions of the park road was covered by the white sands.  Truly this area looked like a snowy oasis in the Chihuahuan Desert.  I did get out to experience the sand . . . and couldn't believe how much of it got into my sneakers! It was so very fine, seemingly getting in everywhere.  I'm just glad I wasn't needing to wash it out of my britches when we got back to her place!

White Sands National Park (NM)

A little over two weeks later, I visited the other well known "sandy" national park.  The Great Sand Dunes National Park is located in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains of Colorado pretty much out in the middle of nowhere.  One of the newer U.S. National Parks (since 2004), I thoroughly enjoyed visiting even if I wasn't able to do much in the way of hiking the sand creek flows at the foot of the sand dune field.  The sand was not very compact and shifted quite a bit beneath my feet.  Such walking can create some stress on my arthritic knees, so I only ventured a couple hundred yards to the water's edge to take a few photos.

Being in the high altitude mountains, much of the campground had snow which was melting and creating a sandy wet mess in some sites.  As I drove through the two camp loops, I thought how happy I was to not be camping there that evening.  The sunny mid afternoon was windy and chilly; so much so I had to find my hoodie to stay warm.  I started to have lunch outside at one of the picnic areas, but quickly retreated back inside my SUV to get out of what became a bit of sand-blasting thanks to the winds.

All in all, I enjoyed experiencing this wonderful national park and think that one day, I would enjoy another visit to including camping.  Oh yeah . . . they also have bears!  But I didn't see any during my couple of hours there.

Great Sand Dunes National Park (CO)

Utah's MIGHTY 5 National Parks - They Did Not Disappoint!

 

The Mighty 5 as they are known, include Zion, Bryce Canyon, Capitol Reef, Arches and Canyonlands National Parks.  For my adventure, I would be departing California's Death Valley National Park and six days later arriving at Hovenweep National Monument at the Utah-Colorado border.  Several on Trip Advisor told me I could not visit much less do justice to the Mighty 5 in such a short timeframe.  And while I will admit, I would have liked to have had a few days more for this part of my trip, I had what I had . . . and wanted to at the very least "sample" each of these magnificent treasures.  The bottom line for me was these sights WERE the very reason for this 25 day road trip . . . the ultimate destination if you will.  And I would pack in as much as humanly possible in the limited time I had.  And looking back, I think I accomplished my goals and have set up for a future return trip for a deeper dive with David once we're both retired.

Of the five, I had only previously been to Zion . . . and that trip back in 2001 with David was literally a drive through en route to the north rim of the Grand Canyon FROM Las Vegas, NV.  Holy cow . . . never again!  But for this trip, I planned for two nights in the Watchman Campground, just inside the park's boundary.  It was a nice place to visit the park via the mandatory shuttle bus system as the visitor center was nearby with plenty of parking.  I had a nice site too, adjacent to the bathrooms and with lovely views of both the sunrise and sunset.  My campsite neighbors were also very friendly, even bringing over some breakfast on Saturday morning.

Of the shuttle bus stops, I enjoyed getting off and walking along the Riverside Walk (stop #9) as well as learning about the California Condors at Big Bend (stop #8).  The volunteer naturalists there were very nice and even posed for a photo with me.  Heading back towards the visitor center, I also got off the shuttle at the Zion Human History Museum (stop #2) and did a short tour of the exhibits. The day of my departure, I headed towards Bryce Canyon via I-15 and stopped in at the remote Kolob Canyons Visitor Center.  While the short "in and out" drive was interesting, it was less than spectacular as compared to the main part of the park near Springdale.  That said, I did enjoy my lunch stop at the picnic area just before the Taylor Creek Trailhead. I'm sure for avid hikers, both areas of Zion National Park are extraordinary, so don't let my limited abilities dissuade you from considering this national park as a fine destination.

Zion National Park (UT)

As already mentioned, next up would be Bryce Canyon National Park.  Unfortunately campsites here were first come first serve until May which wasn't something I felt comfortable messing around with so I went ahead and booked a room at the Best Western Ruby Inn for my one night at Bryce.  This worked out very well as the room rate was decent ($130 total) and included a free hot breakfast buffet which was quite extensive.  I arrived early enough in the afternoon to do a full ride through the park, stopping off at each of the overlooks.  For this park, I had bought and used the "GetYourGuide" audio guide which was very interesting and helpful as I drove the main park road.

Bryce Canyon looked amazing!  This is one place I would like to return and do more walking on the trails.  But traveling alone, I rarely get too far off the main paths especially if they have any amount of incline.  That said, the views were spectacular from the overlooks above and I felt very happy with my time spent here.

Bryce Canyon National Park (UT)

Everything I read said that the road between Bryce Canyon and my next stop Capitol Reef National Park, said this is one of the most spectacular road trips in the entire United States.  National Scenic Byway 12 is also known as The All American Road and was a wonderful drive through the changing landscape.  There were times when I couldn't stop or get into a safe position to take photos, but the images will forever be etched in my memory.

Scenic Byway 12 (UT)

Capitol Reef National Park is a smaller area with the main highway dissecting the beautiful red sandstone rocks and canyons.  There is a turn-off at the Fruita Historic District where the visitor center is also located.  Many suggest taking this route and visiting the pie shop and other historic buildings.  Not being "fruit season" I took a pass on spending much time in this area, especially since my final destination for the evening was my campsite in Arches National Park.  I did enjoy the sights through this park as well as my picnic lunch high atop the Goosenecks Overlook.

WORD OF CAUTION:  The highway road going through Capitol Reef is UT-24 and has a speed limit of 55mph.  I was pulled over by one of the NPS park rangers for going "too slow" (roughly 35-40mph).  His concern was that I would impede traffic or worse, get rolled over by "a truck speeding through at 65mph."  I wanted to be a smart @$$ and respond that he should be more worried about the speeding truck than my slow pace through as I enjoyed the views . . . but I thought better of it and just said "Yes sir" and moved on.

Capitol Reef National Park (UT)

Arriving at Arches National Park after 4:00pm would ordinarily be a non-event but with timed entry reservations currently required between 7:00am and 4:00pm, there was quite a back up at the park entrance because folks were waiting until an entry reservation would no longer be required.  That said, with my prepaid campsite registration (booked six months in advance of my stay at Recreation.gov), I could have sailed right through had I gotten there earlier.  No worries, other than the delay at the entrance caused me to miss the visitor center operating hours.  I would be able to stop by later during my visit for my obligatory NPS Park Passport Stamp.

With the Devil's Garden Campground at the far end of the park road, I would have multiple opportunities to view and photograph the features and formations.  This would be especially beneficial for early morning and late evening photography. With an all-day tour booked for my only full day in the park, I had essentially two partial days to do my own exploring here.

Researching tour options that would include both Arches and Canyonlands National Parks, I ended up booking direct with Adrift Adventures in Moab.  The two-park 4x4 adventure would start at 7am and return to Moab at 5pm, with a lunch break in town between the two park trips.  At $303+tip, this was a very good value.  When looking at Viator and other tour booking services, prices were several dollars more.  While the jeeps are outfitted for up to 4 guests, our group was me plus another couple.  Having just the three of us was very nice allowing for some space in the back seat.  Had we been jammed up with three on the back bench seat, I'm afraid it might have been very bruising as we navigated the rocky trails as we went off-roading up (and down) some pretty steep canyons trails.  The tour is billed as "off road" and behind the main roads and features seen in these two parks.  For our group's tour, because the other couple wasn't going to spend any additional time inside the main part of the park, our guide (with my encouragement) opted to do a bit of an audible to see some of the more well known features in Arches National Park . . . most notably Delicate Arch as well as the little known "backside" of the Window Arch (which ironically was accessible right from my campground).

Adrift Adventures 4x4 Tour - Arches National Park (UT)

Arches National Park (UT)

Adrift Adventures 4x4 Tour - Canyonlands National Park (UT)

After my two-night stay at Arches National Park, I would be off to Hovenweep National Monument for my next campsite reservation.  Before heading south, I did pay a visit to the Canyonlands National Park Island in the Sky District to get my NPS Passport Stamp since I had visited the park without having an opportunity to do so while on the tour.  After taking care of that bit of business, I headed south back through Moab, paid a visit to the grocery store and then on to the Canyonlands Needles District area and visitor center.  Having read that the landscape looked very different in this region, I was excited to make the detour especially since I was already planning to pay a visit to the petroglyphs at Newspaper Rock State Historic Monument site in the area.  Unfortunately, while the views of the "needles" were possible, getting into a position to take photos proved to be impossible.  I was happy to see and photograph the Wooden Shoe Arch which stood large over the landscape in the Needles District, however.  All in all, a great visit to two of the four districts of Canyonlands National Park!

Canyonlands National Park (UT)

Springtime in the Desert - Our National Parks of the Southwest

Saguaro National Park (AZ)

Admittedly, my road trip adventure was probably too early for the best opportunities to see the desert plants in full bloom but I still enjoyed my time in three of the Southwest's most well known desert national parks . . . Joshua Tree & Death Valley in California and Saguaro in Arizona.

The benefit of a late April visit to these areas is that the daytime temps were very comfortable in the mid to high 80's, and for camping at night lows in the 50's . . . except in Death Valley where it was rather warm sleeping when going to bed with it still in the 90's! All in all, however, the weather was perfect.

Saguaro National Park (near Tucson) was on the way from my sister's ranch in southern New Mexico to my friend's home near Phoenix.  I did mostly a "drive through" the Saguaro East - Rincon Mountain District of the park, with a stop for a late lunch/early dinner at one of the picnic areas.  There weren't a lot of flowers to be seen, and where they were, it was a challenge to stop and take photos due to the lack of turnouts on the main park road.  The short 8 mile one-way loop road offers nice views of the wilderness as well as parking areas at trailheads for those interested in hiking. I enjoyed seeing the variety of shapes and sizes of the saguaros.  Take a look at the one below on the right . . . it looks like a tall, lean cowboy to me!

Saguaro National Park (AZ)

After my visit with Dawn & her hubby Ray, I headed west for California.  My next stop would be Joshua Tree National Park.  It's been nearly 12 years since my most recent visit to this area of SoCAL so I was looking forward to my time there.  I booked a campsite in the Jumbo Rocks Campground, one of several places folks can camp while exploring this area.

I also booked the Key's Ranch Tour, which is only offered during the "cool season" (through May 1st I believe).  This 2-hour tour has very limited availability with only one (9:30am) tour offered daily and then only 25 guests are accepted.  Tickets must be purchased ($20 adults/$10 kids 11 & under) on Recreation.gov and are available 60 days in advance.  NOTE that folks with a NPS Senior or Access Pass are provided a 50% discount.  While this tour has quite a bit of walking and standing, it is very interesting and worthwhile as the only way to access this remote area of the park is on this tour.  For more information, click HERE.

Joshua Tree National Park (CA)

After my morning tour of Key's Ranch in Joshua Tree NP, I headed on to Death Valley.  I knew this would be a long drive with arrival planned for early evening.  I was able to get checked into my campground before dark and then head out for a short drive to catch the sunset over the below sea level valley floor.  I really expected to see wildlife, especially bighorn sheep, but alas none.  Admittedly, my time and interests in Death Valley were limited to the Furnace Creek area although I did do a short visit to the nearby Harmony Borax Mine. For anyone interested in the mining history in Death Valley, consider a stop by the Ranch at Death Valley.  This resort has a very nice museum quality exhibit on their grounds and is worth a stroll through.  Before leaving Death Valley, I took advantage of my campground privileges at the Inn at Death Valley to use their swimming pool and showers.

NOTE:  The Ranch at Death Valley and the Inn at Death Valley together are known as The Oasis at Death Valley and is operated by NPS concessionaire Xanterra.  The Fiddler's Campground is also part of this arrangement, which is why camping guests have access to the amenities of the resort.

Death Valley National Park (CA)

The Beauty of Our National Parks - First Up - Carlsbad Caverns

Saturday, April 19, 2025
This date had been on my calendar for nearly eight months.  Not only would it be another "free national parks admission day" compliments of the U.S. National Park Service, but it was also the day I was planning to do the caves tour at Carlsbad Caverns National Park.  Because admission into the caves is on a scheduled and ticketed basis, I needed to be sure to hard-wire this visit months in advance.  With timed entry tickets available 30 days in advance on Recreation.gov I made sure the early part of my travel plans were set.  What I wasn't sure about was whether or not I would be arriving to Carlsbad early in the morning or later in the afternoon, so I bought an entry ticket for both 10:30am and 1:15pm just to hedge my bets.  For just the $1 reservation fee, it was a easy spend.  At it turned out, I was able to navigate my first few days in order to overnight in Hobbs, NM on Friday night, so I was able to easily make Carlsbad early the next morning.

If you are planning to go to Carlsbad Caverns, I highly recommend booking your timed entry ticket in advance.  While yes, there are limited tickets available "day of" on this particular Saturday, they were sold out for the balance of the day by 12:30pm.

The photo above is the 9:30am admission group receiving their ranger's briefing before heading down into the cave via the "natural" entrance.  This is a quarter-mile moderate hike into the Big Room where the self-guided trail begins.  For those of us with physical limitations (gimpy knees, heart and/or respiratory ailments, etc) there is also an elevator from the visitor center down into the Big Room.  While I was tempted to do the natural entrance hike (after all how bad can it be if it's just a quarter mile?) . . . I did the elevator down and back up to assure I was able to enjoy the caverns safely and continue on the rest of my road trips.  After all, I still had three weeks to go and didn't want to get hurt or ill the very first weekend out.

The photos I took hardly do justice to the beauty and variety of formations found here!  I did take the shortened route avoiding the area where rangers caution folks with mobility issues.  Even then, the "short cut" back to the Big Room required a fair amount of steep walkways.  It was interesting to me that NPS describes this route as "level" and while there was a paved path was was level, it was anything but flat.  I was happy I had my hurricane walker/seat as there were several times I became short-winded and needed to stop and breathe before continuing on.  I was very happy to have made it however . . . it was so well worth the effort!

TIP:  If you are mobility challenged, be sure to pick up the "Accessibility" guide in the visitor center.  The Big Room Trail Map/Accessible Route Map was very helpful to me.  While the path up to the Rock of Ages is not wheelchair or walker accessible, I did go that route back to the Big Room.  The photo of me below is at that point of the trail.

Here is a collage of some of the photos I got inside the caverns . . . I hope folks enjoy them.

U.S. National Parks: America's History (Part 3)

Fast forwarding to the 20th century, my epic 25 day SW road trip did take in some U.S. National Park Service (NPS) sites including the homes of two United States' Presidents (Hoover #31 and Truman #33) as well as a couple of historically significant times in our American history.

The birthplace of Herbert Hoover is located in West Branch, Iowa.  While I had previously been there as part of my visit to his Presidential Library and Museum next door, I had been unable to visit inside the buildings that make up the Herbert Hoover National Historic Site.  This was an early morning stop . . . the first in fact . . . after leaving Milwaukee earlier that day.  A good place to get out, take a walk (and a few photos), eat breakfast and head on down the road!

The next morning was targeted for Independence, Missouri and the Harry S Truman National Historic Site.  While I had also been to Truman's Presidential Library and Museum a couple of years back, I was unable to secure a ticket for the tour of his family home, where he returned after his presidency until the time of his death.  Unfortunately, no photography was permitted inside the home . . . but I thoroughly enjoyed by private 9:30am tour, as there were no other visitors there at 9:00am on a Thursday morning.

In addition to the film back at the visitor center, the Trumans' story is told in the house across the street, which does not require tickets for admission and photos are permitted.  I would highly recommend spending a couple of hours visiting all three of these sites.  If you are also considering including his Presidential Library & Museum, you will need at least four or five hours and should start with the Visitor Center and Presidential Home since tickets are limited and only available in the visitor center on the day of your visit.

While in New Mexico, I wanted to check out Los Alamos and the Manhattan Project National Historical Park.  Having recently watched the movie "Oppenheimer" I was curious about the town and life of those working on the first atomic bomb.  I had hoped to learn more about the top secret project, but I guess much of that is . . . well . . . still top secret!  The NPS visitor center is located in the Los Alamos Visitor Center and doesn't have much to see there.  I was especially disappointed there was no film to tell at least some of the story.  The walking tour of the area where folks lived was interesting and there was a community museum in the area.  Since it was late in the afternoon, and I still wanted to visit Bandelier National Monument before they closed, I pushed on.  All in all, this was a let down, but it was also my own fault since I made a (bad) choice to make time for Bandalier.  To do it over again, I should have skipped that and done the museum!

My final "history lesson" experienced thanks to my NPS visits was also the last of my journey . . . Brown v. Board of Education National Historical Park in Topeka, Kansas.  This was planned as the reason to come to Topeka while also wanting to watch the professional women bowlers in their first tournament of the year.

This landmark U.S. Supreme Court case rendered segregation in public schools based on race as unconstitutional.  The 1954 decision came as five separate lower court decisions were brought forward and collectively known as "Brown v. Board of Education."  The case was largely constructed by the NAACP with Thurgood Marshall arguing as lead attorney.  Later (1967) he would become the first African American to serve on the U.S. Supreme Court.  This NPS visitor center and exhibits are located in the former Monroe Elementary School, which was one of four African American segregated schools in Topeka. The exhibits and films throughout did an excellent job of telling the stories and sharing the impact of segregation on a number of people, families and communities.  I was very happy to have made the decision earlier in my trip to return to Milwaukee via Topeka.

U.S. National Parks: America's History (Part 2)

Fort Union NHS (NM) Exhibit

The Santa Fe Trail was the primary route for settlers as well as transportation of commercial goods in the mid 19th century. It was interesting how much of my road trip crossed the trail . . . with historical landmarks dotting the five-state region.  This was quite by accident, although looking back at the events of the time, it all makes logical sense that so much of my journey would include the telling of how America was shaped between 1820 and 1900.

Mahaffie Stagecoach Stop, Farm & Museum (KS)

My first interaction with the Santa Fe Trail was on day #3 of my adventure, in Olathe, KS.  I was just passing through town on the interstate highway when one of those large brown "ATTRACTION" signs caught my eye.  I had no idea what the Mahaffie Stagecoach Stop, Farm & Museum was about, but I was ready to stop to stretch my legs, so off I went.  It was less than a couple of miles from the exit so the detour seemed reasonable.  Unfortunately the place was overrun with school kids on a field trip, so I only browsed the museum and exhibits.  I did enjoy reading more about the Santa Fe Trail and the route taken from Missouri to New Mexico.  Somewhere else to return when I have more time to explore the grounds and buildings.

While I had booked two nights at the KOA campground in Santa Fe, I of course expected to have some historical visits to learn more about the importance of Santa Fe and the route taken back in the 19th century.  Honestly, I knew little about the forts built along the route to assure safe passage of settlers, as well as those set up as trade post destinations where goods were traded with local natives as well as the travelers heading west.

This photo is of Bent's Old Fort (CO) and Fort Union (NM) . . . both of which were used as trading posts on the western frontier.  Bent's Old Fort was largely used to trade for bison hides; while Fort Union was more of a community within itself.  The photo below (right) is what is left standing of the Fort Union hospital.  On the day of my visit, it was cold and rainy, so I didn't explore out on the trails to see the rest of the fort's ruins.  As for the Bent's Old Fort (left), the grounds are currently off limits to visitors due to restoration work going on this summer.

Bent's Old Fort (L) and Fort Union (R)

 

I also visited the Fort Larned (KS) National Historic Site.  Knowing this one would be fully accessible and one of the best restored and preserved sites of this era, I planned ahead and camped nearby so as to allow for a first of the morning visit the next day.  I was not disappointed with all there was to see and do there!  Two hours went by quickly, while I also ran my mobile device (camera) to less than 10% battery juice.

The sandstone buildings were constructed in the late 1850's, it served as the "Guardian of the Santa Fe Trail" during the time in history known as "the Indian Wars era."  Today 9 of the original buildings remain and are open for visitors to see what life was like at an Army outpost.  From the NPS park brochure, the fort even had a bowling alley, "The many wood and adobe buildings outside the central parade ground (hospital, laundry, stables, mail station, bowling alley . . .) quickly deteriorated and do not survive."  WOW what I would give to see THEIR bowling alley!  In addition to the well preserved and maintained buildings and authentic furnishings, NPS continues to provide historical and interpretive services throughout the grounds.  During my visit, I enjoyed talking with the ranger doing the blacksmith exhibit. I hope such will continue long beyond the DOGE era of government cutbacks!

Sights from Fort Larned NHS (KS)

While in Larned, Kansas I paid a short (hour) visit to Santa Fe Trail Center, which was less than 15 minutes away from the fort.  As with most community historical society museums, I found the exhibits well done with authentic items from life back when America was being settled.  There were also a number of original buildings on the grounds, but once again, I didn't have hours to spend viewing all of the items on display.

Santa Fe Trail Center (KS)

U.S. National Parks: America's History (Part 1)

Abo Ruins in New Mexico

Before the expansion west, the land to become known as the United States of America was home to many native people . . . tribal villages and pueblos were scattered throughout the American West and South West.  Fortunately for us today, many of them remain to help tell the stories of the indigenous people predating the white man's discovery and westward movement of the 18th & 19th centuries.  I believe the U.S. National Park Service (NPS) has done a good job of bringing to light much of the "dark history" of how the United States came to be at the expense of America's first native inhabitants.

During my journey across America, I was able to visit what are the remains of several native people's culture, particularly in New Mexico, Utah and Colorado.  My photos don't do justice to all there is to learn and experience, and yet, it is my hope they may inspire others to explore this region and its history.

Museum @ Canyon of the Ancients (CO)

On one of my days moving to my friend Debbie's in west-central New Mexico, I stumbled upon the Canyon of the Ancients National Monument.  Not an "official" NPS site, but rather part of the vast Bureau of Land Management (BLM) holdings administered by the U.S. Department of the Interior (the same government agency responsible for the NPS).  While this region holds the history of over 12,000 years of human existence, my limited time passing through only allowed for a short (90 minute) visit to the museum.  The exhibits and short film are excellently done and definitely worth a stop if passing through the area.

Ironically Hovenweep National Monument, where I had camped the night before just over the Utah border, is part of the vast 176,000 acres with more than 8,300 documented archaeological sites.  Earlier that morning I did a short walk from the visitor center to the overlook but those images pale in comparison to some of the others I would see later in my travels that day, including these three . . . Aztec Ruins (NM), Mesa Verde (CO) and Pecos (UT).

Later in our history, when the westward push across the land infringed upon the tribes already living in the region, the post Civil War Army was utilized to manage and control how the land would be taken over for settlement largely thanks to the Homestead Act of 1862.  Several treaties with the Indians were broken, time and again.  Atrocities to villages, often inhabited by women, children and the elderly was sadly how our country was expanded and settled.  During my trip, I visited the location of two particularly heinous actions against the Native Americans . . . Washita Battlefield National Historic Site in Oklahoma and Sand Creek Massacre National Historic Site in Colorado.  Both left me saddened for the loss of innocent lives at those locations.  The story of Cheyenne Chief Black Kettle spans both of these sites.  He was a man of peace, attempting to maintain co-existence with the U.S. Government.  While he (and his family) survived the attack at Sand Creek in 1864, he was slaughtered four years later when his small village was ambushed by the Army and the men of Col. George A Custer's 7th Cavalry at Washita.

Washita Battlefield NHS (OK)

Sand Creek Massacre NHS (CO)